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Hey, You in the Headdress! Do You Know What It Means?

Chelsea Vowel
2/24/12

tânisi!

I see you are confused about what constitutes cultural appropriation. I would like to provide you with resources and information on the subject so that you can better understand what our concerns are.

However, I also want you to have a brief summary of some of the more salient points so that you do not assume you are merely being called a racist, and so that I do not become frustrated with your defensive refusal to discuss the topic on those grounds.

If at all possible, I'd like you to read the statements on this bingo card. If any of those ideas have started whirling through your head, please lock them in a box while you read this article. They tend to interfere with the ability to have a respectful conversation.

Restricted Symbols

• In some cultures, some items are off-limits. Examples from Canada and the United States would be: military medals, Bachelor degrees (the actual diploma), and certain awards representing achievement in literature, music, or other fields.

• These items cannot be legitimately possessed or reproduced by just anyone, as they represent achievements earned according to a specific criteria.

• Yes, some people will mock these symbols. However in order to do this, they have to understand what the symbols represent, and then purposefully desecrate or alter them in order to make a statement. They cannot then claim to be honouring the symbol.

• Some people will pretend to have earned these symbols, but there can be serious sanctions within a culture for doing this. For example, someone claiming to have earned a medical degree (using a fake diploma) can face criminal charges, because that 'symbol' gives them access to a specialised and restricted profession.

Unrestricted Symbols/Items

• Other items are non-restricted. Flags, most clothing, food etc. Accessing these things does not mean that you have reached some special achievement, and you are generally free to use these.

• If you do not use these items to mock, denigrate or perpetuate cultural stereotypes, then you can legitimately claim to be honouring those items.

Headdresses in Native Cultures

For the most part, headdresses are restricted items. In particular, the headdress worn by most non-natives imitate those worn by various Plains nations. These headdresses are further restricted within the cultures to men who have done certain things to earn them. It is very rare for women in Plains cultures to wear these headdresses, and their ability to do so is, again, quite restricted.

So unless you are a native male from a Plains nation who has earned a headdress, or you have been given permission to wear one (sort of like being presented with an honorary degree), then you will have a very difficult time making a case for how wearing one is anything but disrespectful, now that you know these things. If you choose to be disrespectful, please do not be surprised when people are offended...regardless of why you think you are entitled to do this.

Even if you have "native friends' or are part native yourself, individual choices to "not be offended" do not trump our collective rights as a people to define our symbols.

Celebrate, Don't Appropriate

It is okay to find our stuff beautiful, because it is. It is okay to admire our culture. However I then think it is reasonable to ask that if you admire a culture, you should learn more about it. Especially when the details are so much more fascinating than say, outdated stereotypes.

You do not have to be an expert on our culture to have access to certain aspects of it. If you aren't sure if something is restricted or not, please ask someone who is from that culture. If people from within that culture tell you that what you are doing is disrespectful, dismissing their concerns because you just don't agree is not indicative of admiration.

If you really, really want to wear beaded moccasins or mukluks or buy beautiful native art, then please do! There are legitimate and unrestricted items crafted and sold by aboriginal peoples that we would be more than happy to see you own. Then all the disrespectful stereotyping and denigration of restricted symbols can be avoided, while still allowing you to be decked out in beautiful native-created fashion.

If you are an artist who just loves working with aboriginal images, then please try to ensure your work is authentic and does not incorporate restricted symbols (or perpetuate stereotypes). For example, painting a non-native woman in a Plains culture warbonnet is just as disrespectful as wearing one of these headdresses in real life. Painting a picture from an archival or modern photo of a real native person in a warbonnet, or in regalia, or in 'street' clothes is acceptable. Acknowledging from which specific nation the images you are using come from is even better. "Native American" or "Indian" are too vague.

Miyo-Wîchêtowin, Living Together in Harmony

It's okay to make mistakes. Maybe you had no idea about any of this stuff. The classiest thing you can do is admit you didn't know, and maybe even apologise if you find you were doing something disrespectful. In my opinion, a simple acknowledgement of the situation is pure gold. It diffuses tension and makes people feel that they have been heard, respected, and understood.

If you make this kind of acknowledgement on the condition that people who bring the it to your attention do it "nicely," then there's a problem. The reality is that this issue gets people very upset. It's okay to get heated about it on your end as well, and maybe bad words will fly back and forth. My hope is that once you cool down, you will understand that what is being asked of you is not unreasonable.

Remember that bingo card above? It demonstrates how not to go about the issue. You and I both know this problem is not the end of the world. But it is an obstacle on the path to mutual respect and understanding.

Thanks for listening.

êkosi

Chelsea Vowel is Métis from the Plains Cree speaking community of Lac Ste. Anne, Alberta. She currently lives in Montreal, Quebec. Her passions are: education, Aboriginal law, the Cree language, and roller derby. She holds a BEd, an LLB and is working on a BCL.

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honorindians's picture
Excellent article. I noticed on another Indian website an advertisement to purchase "native made" warbonnets and thought how wrong that was. You cannot buy that which must be earned.
honorindians
beaver's picture
I am not saying the author is completely wrong. But usually, only light-skinned Indians who are completely isolated from what really affects those of us on reservations share the concerns of the author. I think the real reason is these "affronts" give White-looking Indians an excuse to scream racism and thereby reiterate their own Indian identity. Complaining about these minor issues / non-issues makes the light-skinned Indians feel Indian. People like the author get fancy college degrees and then come down to our reservations once every year and tell us uneducated reservation folks that we need to be terribly offended by Indian mascots, that the right word for us is "First Nations" and any other word used should be a great offense, etc. etc. To the author and people like her - if you want to "feel Indian," come and live with us on a reservation and be a part of our daily lives.
beaver
kickapoocandy's picture
Are you reading this Drew Barrymore?
kickapoocandy
kinajin's picture
Hokahey beaver!!!
kinajin
honorindians's picture
Wow, let me get this right here Beaver. She isn't wrong, but because she looks "light skinned", is educated and doesn't currently live on the rez, you diminish her words. It appears she is from a rez and worked hard to make a better life for her 2 children by getting an education. I thought that is what we encourage our people to do, make their lives better. Ms. Vowel I celebrate your accomplishments and efforts to educate non-Indians.
honorindians
apihtawikosisan's picture
tânis âtâ wiya, beaver? Thank you for your comments. I think you are absolutely right that the everyday issues facing native communities are much more pressing and immediate than whether or not non-natives are wearing headdresses to parties. Lack of potable water, crowded living conditions, crumbling or non-existent infrastructure, addictions and so on...these things are much bigger problems. I disagree that this makes cultural appropriation a non-issue. It merely makes it 'one of the issues', and one I think is more present in urban contexts. Talking about cultural appropriation, whether it's headdresses or mascots, does not mean that we're unaware of or ignoring the bigger issues...but having these kinds of discussions IS the luxury of someone who has enough to eat and a safe place to live. I've been living urban now for six years and life is a heck of a lot different in the city than it was back home. It has its ups and downs. I've got central heating for the first time in my life, but it's pretty alienating here. Obtaining my 'fancy college degrees' was not a pleasant experience, and I doubt you could say more scathing things than I could about what post-secondary institutions are set up to do and what they accomplish. But it was another luxury, no argument, and I am the first in my family to have gotten that chance. If 'feeling Métis' means not being able to make a living or support my children in my home community, not being able to eat the fish out of our lake, not being able to afford a house back home because our territory is filling up with summer cottages, and not being able to be near my relations, then have no fear. I feel pretty darn Métis every day. The fact that I can signal planes out of the sky with my skin isn't what has taken me away from my community. But you are absolutely right that this is a perspective that is divorced from the everyday reality of the reserve, the reservation, or the settlement because I don't live out there right now. On the other hand, most of us in Canada are living urban these days and that different perspective comes with different challenges. I am never going to say to people in a community like Attawapiskat that they have to worry about hipsters in war bonnets when they've got people who still don't have proper homes in the dead of winter, and when they've been fighting for an elementary school for years now. I'm not going to tell you that you need to worry about it either. I am going to worry about it though, because when kids come to school dressed up like 'squaws', and war-whoop in my young daughters' faces, I'm not going to tell my kids that they're only crying about it because they want to feel more Indian. kinanâskomitin for your perspective, Chelsea Vowel
apihtawikosisan
aluasasit's picture
And for those of us that don't have a rez, what should we do?
aluasasit
candyo's picture
How to describe a member of a plains Native American Tribe today is versatile. Although, I never lived in a teepee I still consider myself a member of a tribe. I was not raised on the Wind River Reservation like my father, however, my Grandmother's house was a teepee in Oklahoma. I got a degree in my professional career which was something I wanted and my Father told me it was necessary to get along in this white man's world. People told me - you won't get a degree, its too hard and I wanted to prove to everyone that I could do it. Sometimes, I got discouraged, I think I quit college three times before I finally, graduated from the University of Oklahoma. It opened some doors for me that were first shut in my face... I think of myself as a red-blooded Native but a person is the sum of her experiences and I have never worn a war-bonnet, smoked a peace pipe but I believe you can be whatever you want to be.
candyo
matteresist's picture
Good article. I've wanted to write this myself a couple times when people post pictures of objects decorated with a "white girl in war bonnet." However, as someone who has barely a shred of native blood, I never felt like it was my place to write it (or even be offended for that matter.)
matteresist