Source: instagram.com/dsquared2
Model Mariana Santana walks the runway in Milan wearing a 'Dsquaw' design by Dsquared2. Source: instagram.com/dsquared2

Oh No They Didn't: Designers Show 'Squaw' Fashion in Milan

Vincent Schilling
3/3/15

On Monday, the fashion label Dsquared2 showcased a Native-themed line at its Fall/Winter 2015 Women’s Show in Milan, Italy. The show streamed live on the company's website, and was followed up by a series of Instagram and Twitter posts of photos from the event. Dsquared2's designers, twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten, dubbed their collection "Dsquaw" and used the racial-slur pun as a hashtag. The posts and tweets prompted angry comments from Instagram and Twitter users, who called out the term as racist, offensive and insensitive. Many added that the clothing itself was yet another display of cultural appropriation. Hours later, the #Dsquaw hashtags were removed from Dsquared2's Instagram page but can still be seen on the auto-Tweets posted to the @Dsquared2 feed. Here are a few sample photos with their original Instagram captions:

#dsquaw annadellorusso (Image source: instagram.com/dsquared2)

#dsquaw marianaosantana (Image source: instagram.com/dsquared2)

#dsquaw iza_goulart (Image source: instagram.com/dsquared2)

The #dsquaw hashtag was also used on Sunday as the designers were gearing up for Monday's show:

jess_stam all set for tomorrow! #dsquaw #fw15 #mfw #dsquared2 (Image source: instagram.com/dsquared2)

The designers' followers on Instagram and Twitter were treated to relentless usage of the word, as the tag was appended to 12 nearly-consecutive posts:

Screen grab of twitter.com/Dsquared2 feed.

Some reactions, from Instagram and Twitter:

Melissa A @MelissaA1763: Hey @Dsquared2, do you (and everyone using this hashtag) have any idea how offensive you're being with #dsquaw? Plus, #CulturalAppropriation

Ikwe @rabbitchoker: Apparently it's not only ok to #steal designs, appropriate on someone's #culture, but also to insult by using word #dsquaw #DontTrendOnMe

Johnnie Jae @johnniejae: And the award for most racist collection in a fashion week so far this year goes to @Dsquared2 with #Dsquaw

Dani @xodanix3: Pairing of slur with cultural imperialism is most definitely an assertion of conquest on all Indigenous peoples. #Dsquaw #DontTrendOnMe

The use of the racial slur wasn't the only issue some Natives had with the designers. Many objected to the cultural appropriation in the collection, described in a gallery on the Dsquared2 Facebook page as a melding of "the enchantment of Canadian Indian tribes" with the "confident attitude of the British aristocracy."

Screen grab of the Dsquared2 'Dsquaw' gallery on Facebook.

Designer Jamie Okuma, posted the following graphic, comparing the Dsquared2 design to a piece by her mother:

So this went down the runway yesterday in Milan..... and no my mom wasnt there OR involved. My moms bag, Sandra Okuma, the middle one, 2008. The two on either side is Dsquared2 fall/winter 2015........ Coincidence????? I THINK NOT!!! Oh yeah, btw..... if you want to search the collection on instagram.... use THEIR hashtag #Dsquaw !! OMG - And PLEASE SHARE!!

On their website the Caten brothers are described as Canadian twin brothers from Willowdale Ontario, who have operated in the international fashion business since 1984. Having also lived in New York City and Italy they call their collections, “Born in Canada, living in London, made in Italy”. In 2003, Dsquared2 received the “La Kore” award, considered the “Oscar” of the Italian fashion world, and they have also been recognized by GQ and were awarded with a star on Canada’s Walk of Fame in 2009.

Dsquared2 has not responded to ICTMN's request for comments.

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Comments

Michael Madrid's picture
Michael Madrid
Submitted by Michael Madrid on
I suggest running a series of photos of the too insensitive designers with the hash tag #Ddoubledouches.

Catharine Volpe
Catharine Volpe
Submitted by Catharine Volpe on
Dean and Dan There are NO MASTERMINDs behind your work here, it is all plagarized misappropriation of another culture.LOL.. You have to steal another culture to put on a fashion show because you have no original ideas of your own?? SERIOUSLY GUYS????? What a joke you are in the ''REAL World and then to call it a sexual slur on women... How disconnected are you from Society and what is going on in the world? Go back to the cave..

FireflyQuay's picture
FireflyQuay
Submitted by FireflyQuay on
Dean and Dan Caten, what a couple of idiots. Their idea of Native American aesthetic design and fusion with "old britian" is nothing but fantasy based in comic book characters.

crazeknot's picture
crazeknot
Submitted by crazeknot on
This is going 2 far & how disrespectful 2 all Native Americans !!! So these two call this fashion? U should be called dstupid !!!
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