Photo courtesy of the KQ Designs Custom Beadwork
The regalia for Women’s Northern Traditional, the oldest style of women’s dance, is updated with modern patterns and bead colors.

4 Ways Pow Wow Regalia Has Changed Throughout the Years

Tish Leizens

4. The jingle-dress way

“As times change, so has the history and design of the dress,” said Roy Cook, Opata Osage, writer, singer and cultural consultant residing in San Diego County, California. “As tin, sheet metal and Copenhagen™ tobacco lids become available, the lids were formed into cones and pierced. Cowries and other shells have been used as regalia decoration since pre-history.”

Cook said that he has heard—depending on who he talks to—that traditionally there were 300 to 600 cones used on the dress.The contemporary jingle dress regalia is colorful and bright just like the one shown here with butterfly design that is fully beaded. (Photo courtesy of KQ Designs Custom Beadwork)

Heriard said he believes that the poor economy in the 80s was the guiding force to using “used” stuff can lids to decorate the dresses.

“Over the decade and into the 21st century, less jingles are being worn, substituted by fully beaded, tight fitting vests or applique bodices,” he said.


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